Faucet Set Up: Plumbing Pro Tips
The guidelines that can be found in the box with a new faucet must tell you everything you need to recognize for a normal set up. Trouble is, there’s no such thing as a normal set up because every job has its complications.
To obtain the options to the most typical issues, we sat with a pro nearby plumber in [county], [region] that faces these faucet situations every day. Make use of these pro pointers to make your faucet replacement an easy half-day job as opposed to an all-day challenge.
Discover the Origin of the Issue
If your faucet has weak pressure or flow, a new faucet most likely isn’t the solution. Here’s how you can find the source of the trouble:
- If both the hot and the cold are weak, the aerator is most likely obstructed. Simply remove it and clean it to solve the problem.
- If either the hot or the cold (but not both) is weak, then defective supply lines, shutoffs, or supply pipelines are the problem. Supply hoses or shutoff valves are easy enough to replace.
Repairing defective or antiquated plumbing is a bigger job, but it can help some other fixtures in the house that have low water pressure.
Measure Before You Buy
Before you choose a new faucet, inspect the setup and spacing on your sink. If you have a three-hole setup, measure from the middle of each handle to determine your spacing.
Standard spacing is typically 4 or 8 in. If you want a single-hole faucet but your sink includes 3 openings, no worry. A lot of faucets include a cover plate to hide the other two openings.
Buy Whatever You Believe You Might Require
When you go to pick up your brand-new faucet, bring a listing of every possible setup product you could need. One trip to return a few things is much much easier than several runs to the home improvement store for the stuff you thought you would not need.
Get a Basin Wrench
A basin wrench accesses impossible-to-reach nuts underneath the faucet. It will get to those difficult nuts and deal with practically any other fitting you may run into during a faucet mount.
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Mount the Faucet First
If you’re installing a new sink, install the faucet to the sink prior to dropping the sink into place. Having all things in plain view typically makes for much better connections– and the less time you spend on your back under that sink, the much better.
Examine the Shutoffs
Almost every faucet is connected to shutoff valves underneath the sink. Yet those old shutoffs commonly don’t work, and it’s best to recognize that before you start. If your shutoffs don’t stop the water flow, you can repair them or replace them.
Or you could switch off the water to the entire property at the major shutoff valve while you replace the faucet.
Wipe Your Sink Deck
To make certain a good seal between the sink and the brand-new faucet, make sure to clean the footprint of the old faucet. Scouring powder performs well for soap residue and crud.
For harder lime or corrosion deposits, a pumice stone is the best solution.
Use Plumber’s Putty
Some manufacturers suggest utilizing silicone caulk to seal a faucet or drain, but beware: It can be difficult to apply and can discolor natural stone. We favor plumber’s putty. It’s simpler to deal with, and the non-staining variety won’t leave blemishes.
It’s at the same time much simpler to repair a faucet assembly that was installed with putty. Silicone is as much an adhesive as it is a sealant and can make taking things apart difficult.
Replace Your P-Trap
Make space under the sink by removing the P-trap. Reusing an old P-trap can be a messy ordeal for your brand-new sink mount. The cost of a plastic P-trap kit is less than $5, and you’ll have peace of mind knowing all those installations are brand-new and clean.
Keep in mind that many bathroom sink drains pipes are 1-1/4 in., and kitchen sink drains pipes 1-1/2 in.
Replace Your Supply Lines
Never ever reuse old supply lines. The last thing you want is water damages from a failed supply line. Even if the hoses are new looking, it is suggested to replace them since the rubber washers can fail over time.
Quality supply lines with a knotted stainless steel casing might set you back a bit extra (about $8 each), but they’re well worth it.
Get Leakproof Connections
Each link requires a separate amount of torque to tighten up. Over-tightening the slip nuts on a plastic waste line can strip the threads and make for a leaky connection. Always hand-tighten these connections.
For flexible supply lines, the conventional suggestion is to get them to finger tight, after that give them a quarter turn with a wrench.
Do not Skimp on the Teflon Tape
A 40-ft. roll of Teflon tape costs a few dollars, so don’t be stingy with it. Ensure you cover all your threaded links clockwise a couple of times (3 ).
When you thread on that nut, it should feel tight, and the clockwise wrap will keep the tape from unraveling as you tighten up the connection. Teflon tape is just a lot more cheap insurance versus any leaks, so don’t skimp.
Remove the Aerator and Clear Out Debris
Plumbing services knocks sediment loose inside pipelines. Be sure that water-sediment doesn’t obstruct your aerator or valves. Remove the aerator and then let both the hot and the cold run for a min to flush the lines before reinstalling the aerator.
The Final Step: Look For Leakages
Once every thing is connected and your water is back on, do a complete leak check. Wipe everything down with a dry rag, and then blot your links with toilet tissue to see if there is any evidence of a slow leak.