221 N Hogan St,

Jacksonville, FL 32202

Mon-Sat 7:00am-7:00pm

Sunday 10:00am-6:00pm

Mon-Sat 7:00am-7:00pm

Sunday 10:00am-6:00pm

221 N Hogan St,

Jacksonville, FL 32202

Toilet Repair

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Local Plumber - Toilet Repairs & Service

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Toilet Repair Plumbers in All Duval County, Florida

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be among the most typical– and troubling– plumbing problems you might encounter in your home. Whether your toilet is overflowing or running continually, toilet repairs are issues you can not put aside.

 

It would be best if you always try and keep toilets in good working order as they are among the most considerable fixtures in a plumbing system. We do not pay them much attention till something goes wrong and they stop working.

 

The feared clogged-up toilet is among homeowners’ most typical domestic challenges. Many will attempt to fix toilet issues, only to find that the fix did not work or that the issue reappeared.

 

When your toilet requires more than a plunger service, it’s best to call a plumber near me for all toilet repair or replacement needs. With years of experience, our expert team can take care of the job fast and efficiently.

Some jobs are better left to the pros...

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Most Common Issues with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs are best left for the pros to deal with. Nonetheless, not every situation needs emergency plumbing services.

Allow us to go through a few of the standard toilet issues encountered by customers who have called us for ideas on how to repair toilet issues:

Moaning sounds from toilets

If you hear groaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to an increase in water pressure, which allows a water valve to shudder or shake.

Random or consistent flushing

Either of these two issues will possibly trigger toilets to flush and begin filling on their own:

 

  • ( 1) the refill tube is too long, or
  • ( 2) it can also be a leaking flapper

 

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, leading to a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even three times. A high water level is usually the source of this problem. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this.

Water leaking into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”

A sluggish leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the issue here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.

 

Replacing a worn or damaged flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Slow flushes

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve could cause a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle down properly inside the bowl.

Base leaks

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline and the base of the unit should be replaced if your toilet leaks when flushed. This process requires knowledgeable plumbing service.

The toilet is not flushing completely

  • Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
  • Check for a proper water level in the tank.
  • After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for your toilet.

The Bowl Empties Slow

Obstructed openings under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean any clutter, gently jab each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.

 

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

Toilet-troubleshooting

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Tips for Repairing Common Toilet Issues Yourself

A toilet consists of two major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the flooring, and the top tank that holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

 

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where two important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where most of the toilet repairs happen.

 

You will be surprised to learn that most toilet problems are fairly simple to fix without the need of an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair

If you’ve tried out a new flapper to fix your running toilet and it still runs, do not give up hope. Here’s a solution that ensures it works.

 

Few home annoyances are somewhat as annoying as the sound of a continuously running toilet. If you hear your toilet filling up too often, or if you hear the consistent hiss of running water, the flapper could be leaking.

 

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drainpipe opening (flush valve drainpipe seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water till the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water drips out, creating the water valve to open and refill the tank.

Replace the Flapper-toilet repair

Step 1: Changing Flapper

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware store or home center to get an identical one.

 

Note: Occasionally, a new flapper does not fix the issue. If you have tried changing the toilet flapper, but the toilet still runs, the flush valve seat is probably rough or pitted.

 

You can change the complete flush toilet flapper valve; however, it’s a big task, and it might require the experience of a plumber near me.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, search for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

 

Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the damaged seat with the adhesive provided.

 

  • First, close the water to the toilet.
  • Hold the flapper open while flushing to allow the remaining water to drain from the tank.
  • Make use of a sponge to eliminate the water that stays entirely.
  • Follow the included directions to set up the new toilet flapper valve seat.
    • Pro tip: If your toilet uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to remain open. If your toilet utilizes more than this, eliminate the timing cup.
      Install the new flapper.
  • With the flapper down, readjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
  • Turn on the water to test the flush.

 

Note: You may have to fiddle with the chain lenth to get the flapper functioning correctly.

When finished, cut off the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Broken Toilet Handle

If shaking the toilet handle does not stop your toilet from running, any one of these simple repairs probably will.

 

A toilet handle is a primary device– just a few things can malfunction. The solution is much easier than you think.

loose-toilet-handle

Step 1: Loose Handle

If the handle is loose, tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a set of pliers. Do not overtighten the nut; you could strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

 

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be installed properly. Loosen up the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

toilet-handle-stripped-threads

Step 2: Stripped Threads

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, cover the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape. Then move the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut.

It is often best to replace the toilet handle if the threads are too damaged or damaged.

toilet-handle-Handle-Arm

Step 3: Handle Arm

  • Check out the handle arm for issues, splits, or breaks.
  • If there are issues, change the entire handle and arm assembly.
    • Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.
toilet-handle-The-Chain

Step 4: The Chain

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain attaching the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

    • Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up on the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

 

  • If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, utilizing the chain hook.
  • Leave a little slack in the chain.
  • If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
  • If the chain or the flapper is defective, change it.

Toilet Purchasing Tips

Tired of your old, dripping, water hog of a toilet and want to get a new one? Today you’ll find water-efficient toilets with an array of options. We provide these ideas for the next time you go toilet shopping.

Insulated tank-toilet-installation

Insulated tank

If summers are moist where you live, and you do not have a/c, you’ve probably spotted your toilet “sweating” quite a bit. Condensation forming on the outside of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your flooring.

 

Toilets today are made available with insulated storage tanks to prevent condensation issues. Consider this alternative if you have “sweating toilet” problems in your home.

Bowl height-toilet-installation

Bowl height

Bowl height is the distance from the flooring to the top of the toilet bowl’s rim– the typical height for toilets is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find toilets 16 to 18 inches high, often called “comfort level” or “ADA height” or something similar.

 

The added heights offered make getting on and off the toilet much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Toilets designed for youngster heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece-toilet-installation

One-piece vs. two-piece

A two-piece toilet (a separate tank and bowl) is the most typical design in houses. Yet one-piece designs are offered. Two-piece toilets are usually less expensive; one-piece toilets typically have shorter storage tanks and are much easier to clean.

 

One-piece toilets are the choice of many homeowners for their smooth, sleek appeal.

Cost-toilet-installation

Cost

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not instantly suggest better efficiency. Many of the best models we have tested were reasonably affordable and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginal efficient.

Color

Style is fickle. Stick to a white or a beige color toilet to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll dislike a few years later on.

Flush-handle location-toilet-installation

Flush-handle location

If you have a large bathroom and have ample room above or beside your toilet, this probably isn’t all that essential. Make sure to choose a toilet with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

 

Buying a proper toilet is very important, so spare yourself a return trip to the store and pay close attention.

Rough-in-toilet-installation

Rough-in

“Rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that secure the toilet bowl to the flooring and the wall surface behind the toilet. Twelve-inch “rough-ins” are the most typical; however, in some older houses, you could have 10-in. or 14-in. “rough-ins.”

 

Pro Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or flooring tile before you go toilet shopping.

Bowl design

Many toilets marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls. Round-front bowls are good if the area is tight. Elongated bowls have a more extended rim– as much as two in. longer– and require more room.

 

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much comfier for adult use and help boost health. Assess supplier websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before selecting the bowl design.

Footprint-toilet-installation

Footprint

If you mount a new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you might have to repaint the part of the wall surface area covered by the old toilet tank.

 

If your old toilet had a big footprint (the base covers a big flooring area), you might have to patch and repair the flooring part surrounded by the old toilet. You may also have to change the whole flooring before installing a new toilet with a smaller sized footprint.

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